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I feel it's safe to say so! They are buying directly from manufacturers. On Amazon and especially eBay not so much sometimes...

Thank you for your kind comment!

They are together in the 5Ah, but 2P or 2 in parallel so it will still be voltage of one cell for example 2.8 - 4V. You will know if one is bad because it will also affect the other one in parallel with it.

@@ThriftyToolShed thank you! So actually I think my cells are okay then. Any other ideas as to why I'm only seeing too bars before the red blinking starts?

@@BruceChastain I have not seen this exact issue with these packs as I have only worked on a couple of them now. I imagine you have verified the fuse is good. I would check that all balance leads measure correctly all the way to the board and if all else fails you can see if it's a microcontroller on the board to do a reset on possibly. I have shown that on a couple of other brand packs over the years. Some Ryobi, Ridgid and 58V ECHO packs have a header plainly marked and I jumped rst to gnd if you happen to see that. That is all else I would know to check from here...

I am having DC in on the BLDC controller board and it converts it to the 3 phase pulses to run it. The higher voltage BLDC controllers are available at up to 20S or 84V, but are pricey. Thanks for your kind comment! Example 20s controller: amzn.to/3xtJgv3

If it's like this one then it could be the plunger that the trigger moves to activate the switch on the battery, but other than that it is all in the battery. The trigger simply presses the switch that is built into the pack and that switch activates a mosfet on the BMS board to supply power. Most likely internal to the pack if it's not something jammed up with the trigger or plunger.

I did use Neodymium magnets from Amazon. I used high quality flux and was really quick with the soldering since it will diminish the magnets strength the longer the heat is applied. I will also try conductive epoxy next time to see which works best.

@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks, I just see an idea on RUclips, he took 2 magnets to hold the wire instead to solder it.

@@donaldm1156 It works ok, I did that for a while until I kept pulling it apart when I would go to remove it sometimes. Then I started looking into a permanent fix. I also have some magnets on the list to buy with Tapered hole to add a small screw and will try that soon.

I do not know of any diagrams/ schematics available other than what we share ourselves as we learn what we can. That really is the main driver of sharing what we can about repairs. I have a Facebook group called "On the Bench" where we can share pictures or even videos if needed and more people are able to respond and possibly help in the group. I have not had that exact issue myself, but I would lean towards shorted mosfets if the controller if shorted like that. I do have a similar mosfet replacement video on the EGO chainsaw and at least one EGO blower repair that showed mosfets being replaced, but will be different on this controller of course. Best of luck to ya and Thanks for your kind comment!

@@ThriftyToolShed thank you for the tip. I confirmed that it isn't a mechanical switch failure (too bad). I suspect you're correct that the chainsaws and blower's use very similar circuits. I am waiting for the warranty replacement so I can use it as a baseline for measurements. I noted that Cutler's sells the replacement electronic control assembly for about $113. Too bad there isn't better protection designed into the circuit. As a side effect of the bad Power Head, we fried several 2.5ah and a couple of 5ah batteries before we realized the head was the problem. I promise to share my results. Keep up the good work!

@schultzrus1 Hate to hear about the packs, I do share in a couple videos about the trace fuse on the connector board of the packs. It will sometimes pop in situations like this and can be bridged with a link like a 40A fuse link etc. to save the pack sometimes. Best of luck to ya!

@@ThriftyToolShed good idea. Most were EGO brand but a couple were generic batteries too. Have you had any experience with the aftermarket batteries? BTW - when I started studying the Power Head problem I measured 0-ohms across the pos & neg blades of the head unit. Optimistically I will have a bounty of batteries if I ever repair them all! 🙂

The couple aftermarket packs I have worked on also have a trace going to the positive side on the connector board. Looks like they all likely add that for the weakest link!

I have done it without issue. using the balance leads is the best option for charging of course, but to me it does pose the most risk of damaging something on the DeWalt board. Straight to the plus and minis is typically not an issue, but the balance checking will need to be monitored manually.

@@ThriftyToolShed ok nice, what are the TH and ID pins on the pack, what do they do?

@@devjitpaul1191 I have shared this in some of the DeWalt pack videos in more detail. TH is temperature feedback from the packs NTC and ID is a resistor in the circuit to feedback which type of pack it is.

@@ThriftyToolShed thank you

Sounds like a board issue. The mosfets are not allowing output to the output terminal is the most common cause. Sometimes these wake up after being put into the tool when working properly. When you have a board issue it will not. If you have checked that all cells are balanced well then all points to the board.

You can do 2 diodes at a time. So yes.

DC brake. Resistor for braking.

@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks, would this product "DC 12V-36V 500W Brushless Motor PWM Control Controller Balanced Driver Board" on ebay work?

@@navpap1029 It needs to be rated for up to 60V and at least 1000W. I don't know the exact wattage of the brushless motor as I have not owned one myself. It will also need to be able to run sensor-less or hall less.

@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks, I could not find the rating for the motor I own. Also I tried to look up 1000W bldc controller, could not find either. So I went ahead and ordered that, so atleast I can learn. Fingers crossed.

Thanks! Tool Scientist shared they have Samsung 30T 21700 cells in them. I have actually never seen the 5.5Ah in the US.

It has the thermal pad between the heatsink and Mosfets instead of thermal paste. It was not in great shape and could be replaced for sure or add thermal paste, but no not for testing. Testing is fine it doesn't build up tremendous heat instantly as a CPU will starting up. I have used the same Mosfets in other repairs as well with the 56V tools. I have other videos of success doing the same basic repair. I believe an EGO saw and blower if I remember correctly. Just sharing one here that also did not go as well so I have it a retrofit just to play around with it.

@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for sharing, while I know how to solder and use a multimeter I would have had no idea how to check these or that they were called mosfets. If you can link the recommended 80V or 100V mosfet it would be greatly appreciated so I can try this repair on my broken leaf blower.

I believe I shared the link to these in the Blower repair video description. ruclips.net/video/FxO7CpV4b9g/видео.htmlsi=w3c_QwtSprqfuQNY

I will surely pay shipping to show repair on the channel. Thanks for your contributions to the channel. You can reach me at thriftytoolshed@gmail.com

I have not found anywhere that sells them. I even reached out to the aftermarket group to see if I could buy a lot of them and they are not willing to sell individually either. The more manufacturers of these aftermarket packs we see maybe the more likely to start seeing some of those for sale possibly.

I believe it is, but I simply don't know the dates they switched over. It was some time right before the pandemic that EGO switched over to the Gen3 and I heard stories of many months later still having the older Gen2 packs in kits that even showed the new Gen3 pack on the box of the tool they were buying. Obviously customers did not like that. I would not have liked it either with it advertised on the box having the fuel gauge and only getting one with the one light. So for that reason I never knew the exact switch over date or if one was even known about. It may be because of the pandemic that this roll out did not seem to be straight forward. Supply chains were disrupted all over the world for sure. Of course it's easy to tell Gen3 from others by simply looking at the fuel gauge and if it's only one light or 5 segment fuel gauge. The Gen1 and Gen 2 as far as I have seen you could tell by Ah rating on some of these. The Gen1 seemed to come out 2Ah and 4Ah best I can recall. The older 4Ah had a lot of black over mold on them as well. They later had the 2.5Ah and the 5Ah which I always thought was the start of the Gen2. Of course lately they have came out with the 2Ah and 4Ah again in the Gen3 packs. I am not sure about the 7.5Ah as I have never owned one myself. What I am calling V2 of the Gen2 packs seems to be around the 2021 time frame...

@@ThriftyToolShed interesting. Yeah, supply chain disruptions probably seriously screwed with things. I feel like you’re getting enough of a following/community where you’d be able to narrow the production dates on the battery cases AND any changes seen in the BMS boards, you could probably get to some accurate tracking of the pack evolution. Don’t forget about the 6Ah (14S/3P 2000mAh cells) that debuted in overseas markets but is showing up in North America now; the budget version of the 7.5Ah.

Putting it on the charger was the reset. It has been mentioned in several videos in that series of videos, sorry if not as clear in this particular video. Typically the charger will reset that and some packs will go through a diagnostic type test if you hold the fuel gauge button down for 5 secs or so that may help in some cases...

Absolutely!

Wow, you're amazing stevbibiack!

This is the same pin out as the DA2320 shared in the video correct? You still have to use adapter board or bodge wires right? Thanks for sharing!

@@ThriftyToolShed same pinout

Yes, there has been some discussion around these fuses for a while mostly in RUclips comments and some emails, but now more and more shares on the FB group showed up and its time to share with the YT audience and try my best to get relief from one on one communications about certain subjects. These fuses for example I comment as much as possible, but I still can't keep up and each exchange is only helping one person at a time and not the larger group. I do not have a need for the larger 10Ah or 12Ah packs so I really can't do a dedicated video on it so I really appreciate all the photos and videos sharing that helps the larger audience and everyone of us together as well.

Also, I was in many comments early on about the fuses. I may have posted as Phillip Johnson, but sometimes I forget to try to like post as TTS as well. I don't often switch back and forth. I was still researching and sharing as we found out more about them and Tool Scientist has the video that made me stop and look closer and we had a few comments back and forth about these fuses on his Makita video.

No. I never meant to imply any of the sort. I was just wondering if they received a bad unit or pack. I simply wondered if they would retest based on mine in case of a bad unit they could have received. TTC did not wish to take mine and compare any further when I offered, but TTC is awesome enough to send me theirs so I could test with it. I thought that was super nice of them. I simply tested it and it seems the tool is not the issue it seems like a bad pack. The one they sent me will not power the tool much at all. I still have some questions of why both the 4Ah and the 2Ah seemed to give problems for them as they only sent me the one battery, but it was enough to prove my thought wrong about maybe the tool they had being an earlier model or version. The brushless sticker is not on the back, but everything else is the same it seems. I have not posted a video on it since it's not much to show other than a bad or faulty pack to some degree. I may still post one eventually to answer the open question I had in this video. I only have trust for TTC as they even showed the "Beast" pack that sent in to them out performing all the other packs even the one they built to try to compete it. So I feel like they show it as it is. I was hoping the Beast pack would dominate, but they showed it in full glory. They did not make excuses for other packs or manufacturers, just the fact that it was truly a beast.

Good to know thank you sir!!!!!

Thanks for your comment. As mentioned in this video and many others it has bad cells. The actual whole point of the video is to help show the true condition of the cells instead of assuming charging it up will get it back to normal. Many people seem to think to boost it up and good to go. Over 95% of the time in my experience it is bad cells and the problem is simply masked by charging up to get a fault or error to clear. Think about it... How did some of the cells drop low to start with if cells are not balanced? In some cases when all cells have equally dropped down then yes the boost them up method can help, but even then if lithium cells get below 2V they most likely have irreversible capacity loss. These 40T cells have an issue that I found with capacity loss over time as shared in the video and I wanted to share for those that actually care to learn more about lithium cells in series and how close you need to monitor the individual cells behavior.

@ThriftyToolShed yes.a battery can have 3 problems 1.cells discharged or broken 2.bms broken 3.bad contacts between strips or bms I watched all your video, i watch also to learn something I just said that I happened with a battery that flashed the same way and after several attempts I managed to charge it in the original charger Good luck ✌️

Thanks for watching and sharing!

As long as you have all the parts it should be as easy as putting the bolt back in the wheel? It has a carriage style bolt, flat washer, wheel slides on, flat washer, lock washer then the green knob if I remember correctly....

If none of the cells have any voltage across them they are usually done for. They have either gone to zero volts which most likely have permanent damage with much capacity loss or the CID has activated and opened up at the positive end of the cell. I have an older video talking a little bit about the CID on some 12V Hitachi packs I believe.

I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours.

That is the one that comes with it. It is now known that it doesn't work as well with it and works much better with the 4Ah for sure. My 2Ah seemed to functon properly with mine, but some are reporting theirs did not work well at all with the 2Ah that comes with it.

Thanks man!